How To Remove Bicycle Pedals

Removing your bicycle pedals is a fundamental maintenance task every cyclist should know. Whether you're upgrading to a new set, packing your bike for travel, or giving your drivetrain a deep clean, this guide provides clear, step-by-step instructions. We'll cover the tools you need, the correct turning direction for each pedal (including the tricky left one), and how to handle even the most stubborn, seized-on pedals safely. Follow along to get the job done quickly without damaging your bike or your knuckles.

Fast Answer

Right Pedal (Driveside): Loosens anti-clockwise (normal thread).
Left Pedal (Non-Driveside): Loosens clockwise (reverse-threaded).
Tool Needed: A 15mm pedal wrench or a 6mm/8mm Allen key.
Technique: Position the crank arm forward and push down on the tool.

5-15 Minutes Time needed

Easy Difficulty

Left pedal is reverse-threaded Watch out for

Before You Start

Gathering the right tools and understanding one crucial detail will make this a five-minute job. Rushing in with the wrong spanner can lead to frustration and damaged parts. A little preparation goes a long way.

What You Need

A Pedal Wrench or Allen Key: Check your pedals. You will need either a thin 15mm pedal wrench to fit the flats on the pedal axle, or a 6mm or 8mm Allen key for the socket on the end of the axle. A standard 15mm spanner is often too thick.
Penetrating Oil: For pedals that are stuck fast, a spray like GT85 or WD-40 is essential to help break down corrosion.
Rag or Cloth: To clean the crank threads after removal and to wipe away any excess oil or grease.
Bicycle Grease: While not needed for removal, you will absolutely need it if you plan to install new pedals. Applying grease prevents them from seizing in the future.
Gloves (Optional): A good pair of workshop gloves will protect your hands from grease and prevent scraped knuckles.

Safety and Context Checks

Before you apply any force, double-check these points to ensure a safe and successful removal process. The number one mistake people make is turning the left pedal the wrong way.

Check first: The most important thing to remember is that the left-side (non-drivetrain) pedal has a reverse thread. You must turn it clockwise to loosen it. The right-side pedal is standard, loosening anti-clockwise. Forcing either pedal the wrong way can permanently damage the threads in your bike's crank arm, which is an expensive part to replace.

Also, ensure your bike is stable. A dedicated bike workstand is ideal, but leaning it securely against a wall will work. If you don't have a stand, ask a friend to help hold the bike steady while you apply force to the pedals.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order for a smooth removal process. We'll start with the right-hand side, which uses a standard thread, before moving to the reverse-threaded left pedal.

Position the Bike and Drivetrain

First, make the job easier and safer for your hands. If you have gears, shift the chain onto the largest chainring at the front. This acts as a guard, protecting your knuckles from the sharp teeth if your hand slips.

Next, orient the drive-side (right) crank arm so it's pointing forwards, in the 3 o'clock position. This setup allows you to use your body weight to push down on the wrench, which is much more effective and safer than trying to pull up.

Attach the Tool to the Right-Side Pedal

Identify which tool your pedal requires. If it has narrow flats on the spindle where it meets the crank, use your 15mm pedal wrench. Slide it on securely, making sure it's fully engaged. If your pedal has a hexagonal socket on the very end of the axle, insert the correct size Allen key and ensure it's pushed in all the way to avoid stripping the socket.

Position the tool so that it is pointing towards the back of the bike, roughly parallel with the crank arm or slightly above it. This will give you the best angle to push downwards.

Loosen the Right-Side (Driveside) Pedal

The right pedal follows the standard rule: "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey". You will be turning it anti-clockwise to loosen.

With the crank arm at 3 o'clock and the tool attached, apply firm, steady pressure downwards on the tool handle. Think about pushing your foot down to pedal a bike—use that same motion. It might take a significant amount of force to 'crack' it free, especially if it hasn't been removed in a while. Once it breaks loose, the rest of the rotation should be much easier.

Tip: If you are struggling to get enough leverage, try holding the opposite (left) crank arm with one hand to keep it from rotating while you push down on the tool with your other hand.

Unscrew and Remove the Right Pedal

Once the initial tension is broken, you should be able to unscrew the pedal the rest of the way. You can often spin the wrench or even just use your fingers to turn the pedal axle anti-clockwise until it comes completely free from the crank arm. Set the right pedal aside, making a note that it's the "R" one (most pedals are marked with an 'R' and 'L').

Reposition for the Left-Side Pedal

Now, move to the other side of the bike. Rotate the crank so the left arm is pointing forwards, in the 9 o'clock position. Just like before, this orientation allows you to push down for maximum leverage and safety.

Loosen the Left-Side (Non-Driveside) Pedal

This is the crucial step. Remember, the left pedal is reverse-threaded. To loosen it, you must turn the wrench or Allen key clockwise.

Attach your tool securely. A helpful way to remember the direction for both pedals is that you always turn the tool towards the back of the bike to loosen. With the crank arm pointing forward, apply firm downward pressure on the tool. Again, it may take a sharp initial force to break the seal. Press down steadily until you feel it give way.

Unscrew and Remove the Left Pedal

Just like the right side, once the pedal is loose, continue turning it clockwise until it is completely free from the crank arm. Set the left pedal aside. Now both of your pedals are successfully removed.

Clean and Inspect the Crank Threads

With both pedals off, take your rag and wipe out the threaded holes in both crank arms. Clean away any old grease, dirt, or metal shavings. Take a moment to visually inspect the threads. They should be clean and well-defined. If you see any signs of severe damage or cross-threading, it's best to take your bike to a professional mechanic before attempting to install new pedals.

Common Problems When You Remove Bicycle Pedals

Sometimes, things don't go as smoothly as planned. A pedal can feel like it's welded to the crank. Here are the most common issues and how to solve them.

Situation	Use this	Why
The pedal is completely stuck.	Penetrating oil and more leverage.	Corrosion and overtightening can seize the threads. Penetrating oil chemically breaks down rust, while a longer tool handle multiplies your force to overcome the resistance.
The Allen key socket has stripped.	Try the pedal wrench flats, or a bolt extractor kit.	A poor-fitting or low-quality tool can round out the hex socket. If the pedal also has wrench flats, you can use those instead. If not, a specialised extractor tool is the last resort before visiting a shop.
I'm pushing as hard as I can, but it's getting tighter.	Stop and reverse direction.	You are turning the pedal the wrong way. This is very common on the left pedal. Remember: left pedal loosens clockwise. Forcing it the wrong way will damage the crank.
My hand slipped and hit the chainring.	Shift to the big ring and wear gloves.	The large chainring acts as a physical barrier. Positioning your body to push down, not pull up, also makes it much less likely your hand will fly towards the sharp teeth if the tool slips.

Advanced Tips for Removing Bicycle Pedals

For those extra-stubborn pedals or for cyclists who want to follow best practices, here are a few advanced techniques and concepts.

Using Heat to Free a Seized Pedal

If penetrating oil and leverage aren't enough, heat can be a powerful tool. The crank arm is typically made of aluminium, which expands more than the steel pedal axle when heated. Carefully use a hairdryer or a heat gun on a low setting to warm up the area of the crank arm around the pedal threads for about 60-90 seconds. The crank will expand slightly, helping to break the corrosion's grip. Immediately try to loosen the pedal again. Use extreme caution with this method on carbon fibre cranks, as excessive heat can damage the resin.

The 'Cheater Bar' for Maximum Leverage

When you need more force, you can extend the length of your wrench with a 'cheater bar'. This is typically a sturdy, hollow metal pipe that you can slide over the handle of your pedal wrench. This significantly increases your leverage, making it much easier to break a stubborn pedal free. However, this method comes with risks: you can potentially bend or break your wrench, or strip the pedal threads if you lose control. Use it as a last resort and apply force smoothly, not with a sudden jerk.

Why Pedal Installation Matters for Removal

The easiest way to remove a pedal is to have installed it correctly in the first place. The number one cause of seized pedals is galvanic corrosion, which happens when two different metals (like a steel pedal axle and an aluminium crank arm) are in contact. To prevent this, always apply a thin layer of waterproof bicycle grease to the pedal threads before installation. This creates a barrier against moisture and corrosion, ensuring your pedals will unscrew easily next time.

Understanding Torque Specifications

Mechanics use a torque wrench to tighten bolts to a specific value, measured in Newton-metres (Nm). Most pedals have a recommended torque setting of around 35-40 Nm. While you don't necessarily need a torque wrench, it's a useful reference. It means the pedals should be very snug, but not tightened with every ounce of your strength. Overtightening is a primary cause of difficult removal.

How To Remove Bicycle Pedals FAQ

Why is the left bike pedal reverse-threaded?

It's a clever piece of engineering to stop the pedal from unscrewing itself as you ride. A phenomenon called 'precession' causes a rotating force on the pedal axle that is opposite to the direction of pedalling. For the left pedal, this force is anti-clockwise. If it had a normal thread, this force would slowly loosen it over time. By using a reverse (clockwise to tighten) thread, the precession force actually keeps the pedal snug and secure.

Can I use a regular 15mm spanner instead of a pedal wrench?

In some cases, yes, but it's not ideal. Pedal wrenches are designed to be much thinner than standard spanners. Often, a regular spanner is too thick to fit into the narrow gap between the pedal body and the crank arm. Using one can lead to it not seating properly, which can slip and damage the wrench flats or your knuckles.

What if my pedal only has an Allen key fitting and no wrench flats?

This is increasingly common on modern road and mountain bike pedals to save weight and improve cornering clearance. You have no choice but to use the correct size Allen key. It is vital to use a high-quality Allen key that fits snugly and to ensure it is pushed all the way into the socket to prevent stripping it.

Do I need a bike stand to remove pedals?

A stand is not strictly necessary, but it makes the job significantly easier and safer. It holds the bike securely at a comfortable working height, preventing it from tipping over while you are applying force. If you don't have one, lean the bike solidly against a sturdy wall and consider having someone hold it for you.

How often should I remove and regrease my pedals?

For most riders, checking and regreasing your pedal threads once a year is excellent preventative maintenance. If you frequently ride in wet or gritty conditions, doing it every six months is even better. It's a quick job that prevents the much bigger headache of a seized pedal down the line.

Final Checklist for Removing Bicycle Pedals

You've successfully removed your pedals. Before you move on to the next task, run through this quick final check.

Right Pedal Removed: Confirmed it was loosened by turning anti-clockwise.
Left Pedal Removed: Confirmed it was loosened by turning clockwise.
Tools Inspected: Your pedal wrench or Allen keys are clean and not damaged.
Crank Threads Cleaned: The threads inside both crank arms are clean, dry, and free of debris.
Threads Inspected: You have visually checked the crank threads for any signs of stripping or damage.
Ready for Installation: If installing new pedals, you have a tube of quality bicycle grease ready to apply to the threads.

With your pedals removed, you're now ready to pack your bike, perform a deep clean, or install that shiny new upgrade. Well done!