How To Get Pedals Off A Bike

Learning how to get pedals off a bike is a fundamental skill for any cyclist. Whether you're upgrading to new pedals, packing your bike for travel, or performing essential maintenance, this guide provides a clear, step-by-step process. We'll cover the tools you need and the crucial trick to remembering which way to turn each pedal—especially the confusing reverse-threaded one. Follow these instructions to remove your pedals safely and without damaging your bike's crank arms.

Fast Answer

Right Pedal (Driveside): Turn anti-clockwise to loosen (standard thread).
Left Pedal (Non-Driveside): Turn clockwise to loosen (reverse thread).
Universal Rule: Turn the spanner towards the back of the bike to loosen either pedal.
Required Tool: 15mm pedal spanner or a 6mm/8mm hex key.

5-15 Minutes Time needed

Easy Difficulty

Knuckle Scrapes Watch out for

Before You Start

Gathering the right tools and setting up your workspace properly will make this job much faster and safer. A few minutes of preparation can save you a lot of frustration, especially if your pedals are stuck fast.

What You Need

A Pedal Spanner or Hex Key: Check your pedals. Most use either a 15mm pedal spanner on the flats near the crank arm or a 6mm or 8mm hex key (Allen key) on the very end of the pedal axle. A dedicated pedal spanner is highly recommended as it's longer for better leverage and thinner than a standard spanner.
Penetrating Oil: If pedals haven't been removed in a long time, they can seize. A spray like WD-40 or GT85 can help break the corrosion.
Clean Rags: For wiping away grease, dirt, and excess penetrating oil.
Bike Grease: You will need this to apply to the threads of the pedals you are installing to prevent them from seizing in the future.
Gloves (Optional): A pair of mechanic's gloves can protect your hands from grease and prevent painful scrapes on the chainrings.

Safety and Context Checks

Stabilize the Bike: The bike needs to be stable. A bike workstand is ideal, but leaning it securely against a wall or having a friend hold it works too. You will need to apply significant force, so make sure it won't topple over.
Check Your Pedal Type: Before you start, look closely at where the pedal axle joins the crank arm. Do you see two flat surfaces for a spanner, or is there a hexagonal hole on the end of the axle? This determines which tool you need.
Protect Your Knuckles: The teeth on your front chainrings are sharp. We will explain how to use the chain to create a protective barrier in the steps below.

Check first: The most common mistake is forgetting the left-side pedal has a reverse thread. Trying to turn it the wrong way (anti-clockwise) will only tighten it, potentially damaging the threads on your crank arm.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow this process carefully. We'll start with the driveside (the side with the chain) as its standard threading is more familiar.

Position the Bike and Drivetrain

First, prepare your bike for the procedure. To protect your hands, shift the gears so that the chain is on the largest front chainring. This creates a guard between your hand and the sharp metal teeth. If you slip, your knuckles will hit the chain, not the chainring.

Ensure the bike is stable and won't move when you start applying force to the pedals.

Tackle the Right (Driveside) Pedal

Let's begin with the right-side pedal. Rotate the crank arm until it is pointing forwards, in the 3 o'clock position. This horizontal position allows you to apply downward force, using your body weight for maximum leverage and control.

Fit your tool securely onto the pedal. If using a 15mm spanner, ensure it's fully seated on the pedal flats. If using a hex key, push it all the way into the socket on the end of the axle.

Loosen the Right Pedal (Anti-Clockwise)

The right pedal has a standard thread, so the classic "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey" rule applies. To loosen it, you need to turn the tool anti-clockwise.

With the crank arm at 3 o'clock, push down firmly and steadily on your tool. The motion should be towards the rear of the bike. You may need to put a significant amount of your body weight into it. You should feel a distinct 'crack' or pop as the thread tension breaks. This is normal.

Tip: An easy way to remember the loosening direction for both pedals is to think of it like you are pedalling backwards. The force required to loosen the pedal is always in the opposite direction of normal pedalling.

Unscrew and Remove the Right Pedal

Once the initial bond is broken, the pedal should unscrew more easily. Continue turning it anti-clockwise until it comes free from the crank arm. For the last few turns, you can often spin it out by hand.

Place the right pedal aside and make a mental note of which one it is. Most pedals are marked with an 'R' and an 'L'.

Position the Crank for the Left (Non-Driveside) Pedal

Now, move to the other side of the bike. Rotate the left crank arm so it is also pointing forwards, in the 9 o'clock position. Again, this setup gives you the best leverage for applying downward force.

Fit your spanner or hex key securely, ensuring it's fully engaged before you apply any pressure.

Loosen the Left Pedal (Clockwise - Reverse Thread)

This is the most important step to get right. The left-side pedal is reverse-threaded. This means you must turn it clockwise to loosen it.

With the left crank arm pointing forward, apply firm and steady downward pressure on your tool. This force will rotate the pedal axle clockwise, towards the rear of the bike. Again, listen for the 'crack' as the pedal breaks free. If you try to turn it anti-clockwise, you will be tightening it, which could lead to permanent damage.

Warning: Double-check your direction on the left pedal. Turning clockwise loosens it. Forcing it the wrong way is the number one cause of stripped crank arm threads, a costly repair.

Unscrew and Remove the Left Pedal

Once loosened, continue turning the tool clockwise until the pedal is free. Set it aside with the right pedal. Now both pedals are successfully removed from the bike.

Clean and Inspect the Crank Threads

With the pedals off, take a clean rag and carefully wipe out the threaded holes in both crank arms. Remove any old grease, dirt, or metallic grime. This is a good time to inspect the threads for any signs of damage or cross-threading.

Clean threads will ensure your new pedals install smoothly and tighten correctly.

Quick Reference

Situation	Action	Why
Loosening the Right Pedal (Driveside)	Turn spanner ANTI-CLOCKWISE (left)	It has a standard thread.
Loosening the Left Pedal (Non-Driveside)	Turn spanner CLOCKWISE (right)	It has a reverse thread to prevent loosening while you pedal.
A pedal is completely stuck	Apply penetrating oil and wait 30 mins. Use a longer tool for leverage.	This breaks down corrosion and gives you a mechanical advantage.
Tool keeps slipping off	Stop immediately. Use a high-quality pedal spanner that fits perfectly.	A poor-fitting tool will round off the flats, making removal very difficult.

Common Problems When You Get Pedals Off A Bike

Sometimes things don't go as smoothly as planned. Here are the most common issues and how to solve them.

The Pedal is Completely Seized and Won't Budge

This is very common on bikes that have been ridden in all weather or where the pedals were installed without grease. The steel pedal axle can chemically bond with the aluminium crank arm (galvanic corrosion).

Solution 1: Penetrating Oil. Generously spray a penetrating oil like WD-40 or GT85 into the gap where the pedal axle meets the crank arm. Let it soak for at least 30 minutes, or even overnight for extremely stubborn cases. Tap the crank arm near the pedal with the handle of a screwdriver to help the oil vibrate deeper into the threads.
Solution 2: Add Leverage. A longer tool provides more leverage. This is why a dedicated pedal spanner is better than a short hex key. If it's safe to do so, you can slide a hollow metal pipe (a 'cheater bar') over the end of your spanner to extend its length. Be very careful, as too much force can break the tool or damage the bike. Apply pressure smoothly, don't jerk it.
Solution 3: Use Gentle Heat. Use a hairdryer or a heat gun on a low setting to warm up the crank arm around the pedal. The aluminium crank will expand faster than the steel pedal axle, which can help break the corrosion bond. Be cautious and avoid overheating carbon fibre frames or components.

The Tool Slips or Can't Get a Grip

If your tool slips, stop immediately before you round off the spanner flats or the hex socket, which makes the job much harder.

Cause: This is usually caused by using a low-quality or worn-out tool, or a standard adjustable spanner that doesn't fit snugly.
Solution: Invest in a good quality, purpose-built pedal spanner. It's designed to be thin enough to fit while being strong and gripping the flats securely. Ensure the tool is pushed on or into the pedal as far as it will go before you apply force.

Advanced Tips for Pedal Removal and Installation

For those looking to do the job like a professional mechanic, here are a few extra tips.

Always Use Grease on Installation: The single best way to prevent pedals from seizing in the future is to apply a thin, even layer of quality bike grease or anti-seize compound to the pedal threads before you install them. This creates a barrier against water and corrosion.
Use Pedal Washers if Required: Some cranks, especially carbon ones, require thin pedal washers to be placed between the pedal axle and the face of the crank arm. They protect the carbon surface from being damaged by the steel pedal. If your old pedals had them, make sure you use them with the new ones.
Tighten to the Correct Torque: While most people just tighten pedals until they are 'very snug', the technically correct method is to use a torque wrench. Most pedal manufacturers recommend a torque setting of around 35-40 Newton-metres (Nm). Over-tightening can damage the threads, while under-tightening can cause the pedal to feel loose or make a clicking noise.

How To Get Pedals Off A Bike FAQ

Why is the left bike pedal reverse-threaded?

It's to counteract a mechanical effect called 'precession'. As the crank spins, the force on the bearings can cause a normally-threaded pedal to slowly work its way loose over thousands of revolutions. The reverse thread on the left pedal axle ensures that this same force actually keeps it tight.

Can I use a normal 15mm spanner?

Possibly, but often not. A standard workshop spanner is usually too thick to fit into the narrow space between the pedal body and the crank arm. A dedicated pedal spanner is much thinner and also longer, giving you better leverage.

Do I need to take pedals off to fly with my bike?

Yes, in almost all cases. Removing your pedals is essential for packing a bike into a travel bag or box. It makes the bike much narrower and prevents the pedals from being bent or from punching a hole through the bag and damaging other items.

How often should I remove and regrease my pedals?

For most riders, doing this once a year during an annual service is good practice. If you frequently ride in the rain or mud, doing it every six months is a great way to ensure they never get stuck.

Final Checklist for Getting Pedals Off A Bike

Before you put the tools away, run through this quick final check.

Correct Tools: You used a well-fitting 15mm pedal spanner or the correct size hex key.
Knuckle Safety: You shifted the chain onto the big ring to protect your hands.
Right Pedal Direction: You loosened the driveside pedal by turning it anti-clockwise.
Left Pedal Direction: You remembered the reverse thread and loosened the non-driveside pedal by turning it clockwise.
Threads Cleaned: You have wiped the old grit and grease out of the crank arm threads.
Ready for Installation: You have fresh grease ready to apply to the threads of the pedals you are about to install.