How To Change Bike Pedals

Changing your bike pedals is one of the quickest and most impactful upgrades you can make. Whether you're swapping out worn-out stock pedals, upgrading to clipless for better efficiency, or simply want a different style, this guide provides a clear, step-by-step process. We'll cover everything from identifying the correct tools to mastering the tricky reverse-threaded left pedal, ensuring you can complete the job safely and correctly in just a few minutes, without damaging your bike's crank arms.

Fast Answer

Right Pedal (Driveside): Unscrews anti-clockwise, tightens clockwise (standard thread).
Left Pedal (Non-Driveside): Unscrews clockwise, tightens anti-clockwise (reverse thread).
Tool Motion: To loosen both pedals, position the crank forward and push the wrench down towards the back of the bike.

5-15 Minutes Time needed

Easy Difficulty

Reverse Threading Watch out for

Before You Start

Gathering your tools and understanding a few key principles beforehand will make this job go smoothly. The most critical point to remember is that your two pedals are not identical; they have different thread directions to prevent them from loosening as you ride.

What You Need

A Pedal Wrench or Allen Key: Most pedals are removed and installed with either a thin 15mm pedal wrench (spanner) or a 6mm or 8mm Allen key (hex wrench). Check your new and old pedals to see which tool is required. A dedicated pedal wrench is longer than a standard spanner, offering better leverage for stubborn pedals.
Bike Grease: A waterproof grease is essential for applying to the threads of your new pedals. This prevents them from seizing in the crank arms over time, making future removal much easier.
A Rag or Paper Towels: You'll need this for cleaning old grime from the crank arm threads and wiping off excess grease.
(Optional) Penetrating Oil: If your pedals haven't been removed in years, they might be seized. A spray of penetrating oil can help loosen them.

Safety and Context Checks

Before you apply any force, take a moment to set yourself up for success and safety.

Check Pedal Threads: Almost all modern adult bikes use a 9/16" x 20 TPI thread size. Kids' bikes or older one-piece cranks sometimes use a 1/2" size. Ensure your new pedals match your bike's cranks.
Identify Left and Right Pedals: Look closely at your new pedals. They will be marked with an "L" and an "R", usually stamped on the end of the axle or on the wrench flats. Getting this right is non-negotiable.
Work on a Stable Surface: Make sure your bike is stable. A bike stand is ideal, but leaning it securely against a wall also works. You'll need to apply some force, so you don't want the bike to fall over.

Check first: The left-side (non-driveside) pedal has a reverse thread. Forcing it the wrong way (anti-clockwise to loosen) will tighten it and can permanently damage the threads in your crank arm, which is an expensive part to replace.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully, paying close attention to the directions for the left and right sides. The key is smooth, steady force.

Position the Bike and Right Crank Arm

Start with the right-side (driveside) pedal—the one with the chainrings. Shift your chain onto the largest chainring. This helps protect your knuckles from the sharp teeth if the wrench slips. Stand on the left side of the bike, facing the driveside. Rotate the crank arm so it points forward, parallel to the ground (the 3 o'clock position). This setup gives you the best leverage, allowing you to push down on the wrench.

Attach the Wrench and Remove the Right Pedal

Fit your 15mm pedal wrench or Allen key onto the pedal axle. Ensure it's fully and securely seated to avoid stripping the nut or Allen socket. To loosen the right pedal, you need to turn it anti-clockwise (counter-clockwise). With the crank at 3 o'clock, this means pushing the wrench handle straight down towards the floor. Apply steady, firm pressure. It might take a significant push to "crack" it loose. Once it breaks free, it should unscrew easily by hand.

Tip: If the pedal is very tight, try extending the wrench handle with a metal pipe for more leverage or give the end of the wrench a firm tap with the palm of your hand. Always push, don't pull, to maintain control and protect your knuckles.

Position the Left Crank Arm and Remove the Left Pedal

Now, move to the other side of the bike (the non-driveside). Rotate the left crank arm so it also points forward, parallel to the ground (now in the 9 o'clock position from this side). This mirrors the setup you had for the right pedal and keeps the removal motion consistent.

Attach your wrench securely. Remember, this is the reverse-threaded pedal. To loosen it, you must turn it clockwise. With the crank pointing forward, this again means pushing the wrench handle straight down towards the floor, towards the back of the bike. The physical motion is the same as the right side, even though the direction of rotation is opposite. This is the easiest way to remember the correct action.

Clean the Crank Arm Threads

With both pedals removed, take your rag and thoroughly clean the threaded holes in the crank arms. Remove any old grease, dirt, and metallic grit. A clean surface ensures your new pedals will thread in smoothly and prevents contamination from causing creaks or damage later on.

Prepare and Identify Your New Pedals

Take your new pedals and confirm you know which is which. The "R" pedal is for the right (driveside) crank, and the "L" pedal is for the left (non-driveside) crank. Squeeze a small amount of bike grease onto your fingertip and apply a thin, even layer to the entire threaded portion of both pedal axles. Don't skip this step; it's the most important part of preventing future headaches.

Install the New Right-Side Pedal

Take the "R" pedal and carefully insert its thread into the right crank arm. You should be able to screw it in by hand for the first few turns. Turn it clockwise to tighten. Hand-threading first is crucial to ensure you don't cross-thread it. If you feel resistance, back it out and try again. Once it's hand-tight, use your wrench to finish the job. It needs to be snug and firm, but you don't need to exert all your strength. A good firm pull is sufficient.

Install the New Left-Side Pedal

Move back to the left side of the bike with your "L" pedal. Insert it into the left crank arm and begin threading it in by hand. Remember, this side is reverse-threaded, so you will turn it anti-clockwise to tighten. Again, it should go in smoothly by hand for several rotations. Once it's hand-tight, use your wrench to snug it up firmly. The final tightness should feel the same as the right side.

Perform a Final Check

Give each pedal a spin to ensure they rotate freely on their bearings. Hold the crank arm steady and try to wiggle each pedal. There should be no play or movement where the axle meets the crank arm. If everything is solid and spins smoothly, you're ready to ride.

Tip: After your first ride, it's good practice to re-check the pedal tightness. They can sometimes settle in slightly, and a quick check ensures they remain secure for the long term.

Quick Reference

Action	Right Pedal (Driveside)	Left Pedal (Non-Driveside)
To Loosen (Remove)	Turn Anti-Clockwise	Turn Clockwise
To Tighten (Install)	Turn Clockwise	Turn Anti-Clockwise
Easy Way to Remember	For loosening, always position the crank forward and push the wrench down towards the rear of the bike.

Common Problems When You Change Bike Pedals

Sometimes things don't go as planned. Here are fixes for the most common issues you might encounter.

Problem: The Pedal is Completely Stuck

This is the number one issue, usually caused by a pedal that was installed without grease and has corroded or seized in the crank arm.

Increase Leverage: Your first option is more leverage. A dedicated pedal wrench is longer than a standard spanner for this reason. If you're using an Allen key, you can slide a metal pipe over the end to extend the handle.
Use Penetrating Oil: Spray a generous amount of a penetrating fluid like WD-40 or PlusGas onto the area where the pedal axle enters the crank. Let it sit for at least 15-30 minutes (or even overnight for very stubborn cases) to work its way into the threads.
Apply Gentle Heat: Heat causes metal to expand. Carefully using a hairdryer to warm up the crank arm (not the pedal axle itself) can sometimes expand it just enough to break the corrosion's grip. Use caution, especially with carbon cranks.

Problem: You've Started Cross-Threading the New Pedal

Cross-threading happens when the pedal is screwed in at an angle, cutting new, incorrect threads into the soft aluminium of the crank arm.

Stop Immediately: If you feel any significant resistance while screwing the pedal in by hand, stop. Do not force it with a wrench.
Back It Out and Realign: Unscrew the pedal completely and inspect both the pedal and crank threads for damage. Carefully try again, focusing on keeping the pedal axle perfectly perpendicular to the crank arm.
If Damaged: If the crank arm threads are damaged, you may need a bike shop to repair them. They can use a tool called a tap to re-cut the threads.

Problem: The New Pedal Clicks or Feels Loose

A clicking or wobbling pedal is annoying and can be unsafe.

Check Tightness: The most common cause is simply that the pedal isn't tight enough. Give it another firm turn with your wrench.
Check for Washers: Some pedals come with thin washers. If your crank arm face is recessed, the pedal body might be hitting it before the axle is fully tight. A pedal washer can solve this.
Check Bearings: If the pedal is tight in the crank but still wobbles, the pedal's internal bearings may be loose or worn out. This requires servicing the pedal itself or replacing it.

Advanced Tips for Changing Bike Pedals

For those looking to do the job like a professional, here are a few extra considerations.

Using a Torque Wrench

Most manufacturers specify a recommended torque setting for pedals, typically in the range of 35-40 Newton-metres (Nm). While not strictly necessary for metal cranks (where "good and tight" is sufficient), using a torque wrench is highly recommended for carbon fibre crank arms. Over-tightening can crush the carbon, while under-tightening can allow the pedal to work loose and damage the threads. A torque wrench with a crow's foot adapter or a hex bit socket ensures you get it just right.

Pedal Washers: When to Use Them

Thin pedal washers are small rings that sit between the pedal axle and the crank arm face. You should use them if:

Your crank arm face has a recess, and the shoulder of the pedal axle is wider than the flat surface. The washer prevents the pedal from binding.
You have carbon cranks and the manufacturer recommends them to protect the carbon surface from being marred by the steel pedal axle.
You want to make a very minor adjustment to your stance width (Q-factor), though the effect is minimal.

Grease vs. Anti-Seize Compound

For 99% of installations (a steel pedal axle into an aluminium alloy crank arm), standard waterproof bike grease is perfect. However, if you have titanium pedal axles or are installing pedals into titanium cranks, it's better to use a dedicated anti-seize compound. This is because different metals (like titanium and aluminium) can react with each other over time, a process called galvanic corrosion, which can fuse them together. Anti-seize contains small metallic particles that prevent this from happening.

How To Change Bike Pedals FAQ

Which way do I turn the wrench to remove bike pedals?

The easiest way to remember is to always turn the wrench towards the back of the bike. Position the crank arm pointing forward on whichever side you're working on, and push the wrench down. This works for loosening both the standard-threaded right pedal and the reverse-threaded left pedal.

Are all bike pedal threads the same size?

No, but they are highly standardised. Almost all modern bikes for adults use a 9/16" x 20 TPI thread. Some children's bikes, BMX bikes, or older cruisers with one-piece steel cranks use a smaller 1/2" thread. It's crucial to match your new pedals to your crankset.

Why is the left bike pedal threaded backwards?

This is to counteract a mechanical phenomenon called "precession." As you pedal, the force causes the pedal axle to want to "walk" or rotate in the opposite direction of the pedalling motion. If the left pedal had a normal thread, this force would slowly unscrew it as you ride. By reversing the thread, the precession force actually works to keep the pedal tight.

Can I use a normal spanner instead of a pedal wrench?

Sometimes. A standard 15mm spanner will fit some pedals, but they are often too thick to fit into the narrow space between the pedal body and the crank arm. A dedicated pedal wrench is much thinner and also longer, providing better clearance and leverage, which is especially important for removing stubborn pedals.

Final Checklist for Changing Bike Pedals

Before you head out for a ride, run through this quick final check to ensure everything is perfect.

Pedals on Correct Sides: Double-check the "R" pedal is on the right (driveside) and the "L" pedal is on the left.
Right Pedal Tightened: The right pedal is fully tightened by turning it clockwise.
Left Pedal Tightened: The left pedal is fully tightened by turning it anti-clockwise.
Threads Were Greased: You applied a thin layer of grease to the threads before installation.
No Wobble: The pedals are firm in the cranks with no play or movement.
Tools Put Away: Your wrench, grease, and rags are cleaned and stored for next time.