How Do You Remove Bicycle Pedals

Learning how to remove bicycle pedals is a fundamental skill for any cyclist. Whether you're upgrading to new pedals, packing your bike for travel, or performing deep cleaning and maintenance, this guide provides a clear, step-by-step process. We'll cover the tools you need, the correct technique for each side, and the crucial trick to dealing with the left pedal's reverse thread. Following these instructions will help you get the job done safely without damaging your bike or scraping your knuckles.

Fast Answer

Right Pedal: Loosens anti-clockwise (normal thread).
Left Pedal: Loosens clockwise (reverse thread).
Tool Needed: 15mm pedal spanner or a 6mm/8mm Allen key.
Technique: Point crank arm forward, push spanner down towards the rear of the bike.

5-15 Minutes Time needed

Easy Difficulty

Reverse Thread Watch out for

Before You Start

Gathering the right tools and understanding one key principle will make this job straightforward. Rushing in without preparation is the most common cause of frustration and damaged parts. Take a moment to get organised.

What You Need

A 15mm Pedal Spanner: This is the most common tool. These spanners are thinner than a standard workshop spanner and have a long handle for better leverage.
6mm or 8mm Allen Key (Hex Key): Many modern pedals are fitted from the inside of the crank arm using an Allen key instead of a spanner. Check your pedals to see which you need.
Penetrating Oil: If pedals are stiff or seized (e.g., WD-40 or GT85), this will be a huge help.
Clean Rag: For cleaning old grease and dirt from the crank threads.
Gloves: To protect your hands from grease and accidental slips.
Bike Grease or Anti-Seize Compound: Essential for reinstalling pedals to prevent them from seizing in the future.
Bike Workstand (Optional): Not essential, but it makes the job much easier by holding the bike securely at a comfortable height.

Safety, Timing, or Context Checks

The single most important thing to understand before you begin is that your two pedals are threaded differently. Your right (driveside) pedal has a standard thread, but your left (non-driveside) pedal is reverse-threaded. This is a deliberate design feature to prevent the pedalling motion from loosening the left pedal over time, a phenomenon known as pedal precession.

Check first: The left-side pedal has a reverse thread. You must turn it clockwise to loosen it. Forcing it the wrong way will only make it tighter and can permanently damage the threads on your crank arm, which is an expensive part to replace.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully, working on one pedal at a time. We recommend starting with the right-side pedal as it uses a standard thread you'll be more familiar with.

Position the Bicycle and Drivetrain

First, secure your bike. If you have a workstand, mount the bike in it. If not, lean it securely against a wall. Next, shift the gears so that the chain is on the largest chainring at the front. This serves as a guard, protecting your knuckles from the sharp teeth of the chainring if your hand slips while applying force.

Tackle the Right-Side (Driveside) Pedal First

Let's begin with the side that has the chainset. Rotate the crank so the right crank arm is pointing forward, in the 3 o'clock position. Having the crank arm horizontal like this provides the best position to apply downward force and leverage against the frame.

Fit Your Spanner or Allen Key

If your pedal uses a spanner, slide the 15mm pedal spanner onto the flats on the pedal axle, between the pedal body and the crank arm. Make sure it is fully and securely seated. If your pedal uses an Allen key, insert the key firmly into the socket on the back of the crank arm (the side facing the frame). A poor fit can lead to rounding off the bolt or flats.

Tip: Using a dedicated pedal spanner with a long handle makes a huge difference. The extra length provides significantly more leverage, making it easier to break the initial tension on a tight pedal.

Loosen the Right Pedal (Anti-Clockwise)

This pedal follows the standard rule: "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey". To loosen it, you need to turn it anti-clockwise. With the crank arm at 3 o'clock, position your tool so the handle is pointing upwards or slightly forwards. Now, push down firmly on the end of the tool's handle. You are aiming to turn it towards the rear of the bike. It may take a significant, sharp burst of force to get it to move. Using your body weight can help.

Unscrew and Remove the Pedal

Once the initial tension is broken, the pedal should unscrew much more easily. You can often spin it the rest of the way out by hand. As you remove it, pay attention to whether there is a small, thin washer between the pedal and the crank arm. This is a pedal washer; don't lose it.

Move to the Left-Side (Non-Driveside) Pedal

Now for the other side. Rotate the cranks so the left crank arm is pointing forward, in the 9 o'clock position. Just as before, this horizontal position is the most effective for applying downward force.

Loosen the Left Pedal (Clockwise)

This is the crucial step that catches many people out. Because it is reverse-threaded, you must turn the left pedal clockwise to loosen it. Attach your spanner or Allen key as you did on the other side. Again, push down on the handle so that it moves toward the rear of the bike. Even though you are pushing in the same direction relative to the bike, this motion will turn the pedal spindle clockwise and loosen it.

Remember the rule: To loosen both pedals, always orient the crank arm forward and push your tool's handle down and towards the back of the bike. This simple physical motion works for both sides, automatically accounting for the different thread directions.

Unscrew and Complete the Removal

Once you've broken the initial tension, unscrew the left pedal the rest of the way. It should now be free. Take note of the 'L' and 'R' markings on your pedals (usually on the axle ends) so you don't mix them up later. Now is an excellent time to clean the threads inside the crank arms with your rag.

Quick Reference

Pedal Side	Direction to Loosen	Simple Mnemonic
Right Side (Driveside)	Anti-Clockwise	Standard thread: "Lefty-loosey"
Left Side (Non-Driveside)	Clockwise	Reverse thread: "Righty-loosey"

Common Problems When You Remove Bicycle Pedals

Sometimes things don't go as smoothly as planned. Here are solutions to the most common issues you might encounter.

The Pedal is Completely Seized and Won't Budge

This is very common, especially if the pedals were installed without grease. Don't panic, and don't apply so much force that you hurt yourself or break something.

Use Penetrating Oil: Liberally spray a penetrating oil (like GT85 or WD-40) onto the area where the pedal axle threads into the crank arm. Let it sit for at least 15-30 minutes to soak in. For very stubborn pedals, you might need to leave it overnight.
Increase Your Leverage: A longer tool provides more torque. If you're using an Allen key, you can slide a hollow metal tube (a "cheater bar") over the end to extend its length. Be very careful doing this, as the increased force makes it easier to strip the socket if the tool isn't perfectly seated.
Use Percussive Force: With your spanner securely in place, give the end of it a few sharp taps with a rubber mallet in the loosening direction. Sometimes this shock is enough to break the corrosion bond.

The Tool Keeps Slipping Off

This usually happens for two reasons: the tool is low quality and has a loose fit, or the pedal's spanner flats (or Allen socket) are worn and rounded off.

Check the Fit: Ensure your tool is pushed on as far as it will go. Wiggle it slightly to make sure it's fully engaged before applying major force.
Try a Different Tool: If your pedal has both spanner flats and an Allen socket, try the other one. A fresh, high-quality tool can sometimes get a better grip where a worn one fails.
Last Resort: If the flats are completely destroyed, you may need a large pair of locking pliers or a pipe wrench to grip the axle. This will almost certainly damage the pedal axle but may save your crank arm. This is a high-risk move; visiting a bike shop might be a safer option.

Advanced Tips for Removing Bicycle Pedals

Once you've mastered the basics, these tips will make the job faster, safer, and better for the long-term health of your bike.

Clean and Inspect Threads: After removing the pedals, always use a degreaser and a rag to thoroughly clean the threads on both the pedal axles and inside the crank arms. Inspect them for any signs of damage like cross-threading or stripping. Clean threads ensure a smooth reinstallation.
Always Use Grease on Reinstallation: This is the most important tip. Before you screw your pedals back in, apply a thin, even layer of bicycle grease or anti-seize compound to the pedal threads. This prevents corrosion and galvanic seizing between the steel pedal axle and the alloy crank arm, ensuring they will be easy to remove next time.
Start Threads by Hand: To avoid cross-threading, always start screwing the pedals back into the cranks by hand for the first few turns. They should go in smoothly. If you feel resistance immediately, stop, back it out, and try again. Only use a tool to tighten them once you're sure they are threaded correctly.
Correct Tightness (Torque): It's possible to overtighten pedals. They need to be firm, but not excessively tight. The standard advice is to tighten them until they are "very snug". If you own a torque wrench, the manufacturer's recommended setting is usually between 35-40 Newton-metres (Nm).

How Do You Remove Bicycle Pedals FAQ

Are all bicycle pedals removed in the same way?

The fundamental principle (right pedal is standard thread, left is reverse) is nearly universal. However, the tool required can vary. Most use a 15mm pedal spanner, but many modern road and mountain bike pedals use a 6mm or 8mm Allen key from the back of the crank arm.

Why is the left bicycle pedal reverse-threaded?

It’s designed to counteract a mechanical force called precession. As the crank rotates, the pressure on the bearings causes the pedal axle to want to 'walk' or roll in the opposite direction of the pedalling motion. On the left side, a standard thread would slowly unscrew itself. A reverse thread makes this same force tighten the pedal, keeping it secure.

What should I do if I've stripped the Allen key socket?

This is a tough situation. The best solution is to take the bike to a professional mechanic at a bike shop. They have specialised tools like screw extractors that can often remove the damaged part without harming the crank arm. Attempting this yourself without the right equipment can lead to a much more expensive repair.

Can I use a regular 15mm spanner from my toolbox?

You might be able to, but often you'll find a standard spanner is too thick to fit in the narrow gap between the pedal body and the crank arm. Pedal-specific spanners are designed to be much thinner for this reason. They are also longer, which gives you crucial extra leverage.

Final Checklist for Removing Bicycle Pedals

Before you finish, run through this quick checklist to ensure you've done the job correctly and set yourself up for success next time.

Correct Tool Selected: You used a 15mm pedal spanner or the correct size Allen key for your specific pedals.
Drivetrain Positioned: The chain was moved to the large chainring to protect your hands.
Correct Loosening Direction: You turned the right pedal anti-clockwise and the left pedal clockwise.
Steady Pressure Applied: You used smooth, firm body weight rather than jerky movements that could cause the tool to slip.
Threads Cleaned: You wiped the old grease and grime from the pedal and crank arm threads.
Fresh Grease Applied: If reinstalling, you applied a thin layer of grease or anti-seize to the pedal threads.
Pedals Correctly Sided: You've made sure the pedal marked 'L' is on the left crank arm and 'R' is on the right.