How Do You Change Pedals On A Bike
A practical step-by-step guide to how do you change pedals on a bike, including preparation, instructions, common issues, tips, and next steps.
How Do You Change Pedals On A Bike
Changing your bike pedals is one of the quickest and most effective upgrades you can make. Whether you're swapping out worn-out stock pedals for grippier flat pedals, moving to a clipless system for better efficiency, or simply performing routine maintenance, this guide will walk you through the process. It's a straightforward job that requires only a couple of common tools. Following these steps ensures you'll do it correctly, avoiding the common pitfall of the reverse-threaded left pedal that trips up many first-timers.
Fast Answer
- Right Pedal: Unscrews anti-clockwise (normal thread).
- Left Pedal: Unscrews clockwise (reverse thread).
- Tool Placement: Always turn the wrench toward the back of the bike to loosen.
Before You Start
- New Pedals: Ensure they have the correct thread size (9/16" is standard for most adult bikes).
- Pedal Wrench or Allen Key: A thin 15mm pedal wrench is best. Many modern pedals use a 6mm or 8mm Allen key from the back of the crank arm.
- Bike Grease: Essential for preventing pedals from seizing in the future.
- Clean Rags or Paper Towels: For cleaning threads and wiping away excess grease.
- Optional - Bike Stand: A workstand makes the job much easier, but is not essential.
- Optional - Gloves: To keep your hands clean and protected.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Prepare Your Bike and Tools
First, secure your bike. If you have a bike stand, mount the bike securely. If not, lean it firmly against a wall so it won't fall over while you apply force. To protect your knuckles from the chainring teeth, shift the chain onto the largest chainring at the front. This simple step can save you a painful scrape. Gather your tools—your wrench or Allen key, grease, and rags—and place them within easy reach.
Position the Drive-Side Crank for Removal
Start with the right pedal, which is on the same side as your chain and gears (the drive side). Rotate the crank arm so it's pointing forward, in the 3 o'clock position. This orientation gives you the best angle to apply downward force, using your body weight for leverage. Standing on the left side of the bike facing the crank will give you a stable and powerful stance.
Remove the Right Pedal
The right pedal has a standard thread, so the familiar rule of "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey" applies. Fit your 15mm pedal wrench onto the flats of the pedal spindle, right where it joins the crank arm. If your pedal uses an Allen key, insert it into the hex bolt on the back of the crank arm. Ensure the tool is fully seated to avoid stripping the bolt. Push down firmly on the wrench in an anti-clockwise direction. If the pedal is very tight, you may need to give the wrench a sharp, forceful push to break it loose. Once it breaks free, you should be able to unscrew it the rest of the way by hand.
Remove the Left Pedal
Now, move to the other side of the bike (the non-drive side). Rotate the left crank arm so it is pointing forward, in the 9 o'clock position. This is the crucial step: the left pedal is reverse-threaded. This means you need to turn it the opposite way to loosen it. Fit your wrench or Allen key as before, and push down firmly in a clockwise direction. Again, the wrench should move toward the rear of the bike. Once it breaks free, finish unscrewing it by hand and remove the pedal.
Clean the Crank Arm Threads
With both old pedals removed, take a clean rag and thoroughly wipe the inside of the threaded holes in the crank arms. Remove all the old grease, dirt, and any metallic filings. A clean surface is essential for a smooth installation and to prevent the new pedals from creaking or seizing over time. Inspect the threads for any signs of damage, such as stripping or cross-threading.
Prepare the New Pedals for Installation
Take your new pedals and identify the left ('L') and right ('R') pedal. The markings are usually stamped on the end of the spindle or on the pedal body itself. Squeeze a small amount of bike grease onto your finger or a rag and apply a thin, even layer to the entire threaded portion of both pedals. This anti-seize measure is vital; it prevents the steel threads of the pedal from chemically bonding with the aluminium of the crank arm, a process known as galvanic corrosion.
Install the Right Pedal
Take the pedal marked 'R'. Carefully align it with the hole in the right crank arm. Using only your fingers, begin threading it in by turning the spindle clockwise. It should thread in smoothly for several rotations. If you feel any resistance, stop immediately. Back it out and re-align the threads to avoid cross-threading, which can permanently damage your crank arm. Once it's hand-tight, use your wrench to give it a final tightening. It should be snug and firm—about as tight as a car's oil filter. If you have a torque wrench, the recommended torque is typically between 35-40 Nm.
Install the Left Pedal
Now take the pedal marked 'L'. Align it with the left crank arm. Remembering the reverse thread, use your fingers to start threading it in by turning the spindle anti-clockwise. Just like the right side, it should go in easily by hand. Once it's finger-tight, use your wrench to tighten it fully, again turning anti-clockwise. Ensure it is just as firm as the right side.
Perform a Final Check
With both pedals installed and tightened, use your rag to wipe away any excess grease that may have squeezed out from around the threads. Grab each pedal and give it a firm wiggle to make sure there's no play or looseness. Finally, slowly rotate the cranks by hand a few full revolutions to check that everything moves smoothly without any binding or unexpected noises. Your bike is now ready to ride.
Common Problems When You Change Pedals On a Bike
| Situation | Use this | Why |
|---|---|---|
| The pedal is completely stuck and won't turn. | Penetrating oil, more leverage (a longer wrench), and correct technique. | Corrosion and dirt can seize the threads. Oil breaks down rust, and extra leverage overcomes the initial friction. Ensure you are turning the correct way. |
| The new pedal feels tight and won't thread in by hand. | Stop, remove the pedal, and re-check. | You are either trying to install the wrong pedal ('L' on the right side) or the threads are misaligned (cross-threading), which will destroy the crank arm. |
| My pedals make a clicking or creaking noise after installation. | Remove, clean threads, re-apply grease, and tighten firmly. | The noise is usually caused by dry or dirty threads, or the pedal not being tightened enough against the face of the crank arm. |
| The pedal spindle just spins and doesn't unscrew. | Hold the pedal body steady with one hand while turning the wrench. | The internal bearings are so smooth that the whole pedal assembly is rotating. Holding it still allows the threads to engage and loosen. |
Advanced Tips for how do you change pedals on a bike
Once you've mastered the basics, a few extra details can improve the process and protect your equipment, especially if you're working with high-end components like carbon fibre cranks.
Using a Torque Wrench for Precision
While "firmly tightened" is fine for most bikes, high-performance or carbon components are sensitive to incorrect torque. Overtightening can damage carbon crank arms, while under-tightening can lead to creaking or pedals working themselves loose. Using a torque wrench removes the guesswork. Most pedal manufacturers recommend a torque setting between 35 and 40 Newton-metres (Nm). Always check the specific recommendation for your pedals and cranks.
The Role of Pedal Washers
Some new pedals come with very thin washers. These are not always necessary, but they serve a purpose. A pedal washer sits between the pedal spindle and the face of the crank arm. It protects the surface of your cranks from being marked by the pedal spindle as you tighten it. They can also ensure a perfectly flat interface between the pedal and crank, which can help prevent creaking. Use them if your crank arms have a flat surface. If the area where the pedal threads in is recessed, you may not have room for a washer.
Dealing with Hex Key-Only Pedals
Many modern, lightweight pedals have done away with the 15mm wrench flats to save weight and improve aerodynamics. These are installed and removed solely with a 6mm or 8mm Allen (hex) key from the inside of the crank arm. While the turning directions remain identical, getting enough leverage to remove a tight pedal can be much harder with a small L-shaped Allen key. A long-handled hex wrench or a hex bit for a socket wrench is a huge help for this job.
How Do You Change Pedals On A Bike FAQ
Are all bike pedal threads the same size?
The vast majority of modern adult bikes use a 9/16" x 20 TPI (threads per inch) standard. However, some very old bikes (especially French models) and some children's bikes with one-piece cranks may use a smaller 1/2" thread size. It's always best to confirm your new pedals match your cranks, but if you're working on a bike made in the last 30 years, it's almost certainly 9/16".
Do I absolutely have to use grease on the pedal threads?
Yes, this is one of the most important steps. Applying grease, often called an "anti-seize," prevents the steel threads of the pedal from corroding and chemically bonding to the aluminium alloy of the crank arm. Without grease, pedals can become permanently stuck, making future removal incredibly difficult or even impossible without damaging the cranks.
What is an easy way to remember which way to turn the wrench?
The most reliable rule of thumb is that to loosen a pedal, you always turn the wrench toward the back of the bike. On the right side, this corresponds to an anti-clockwise motion. On the left, it's a clockwise motion. To tighten, you always turn the wrench toward the front of the bike.
Can I put the left pedal on the right side?
No, you cannot. The threads are designed to be incompatible. The right pedal has a right-hand thread (tightens clockwise), and the left pedal has a left-hand (reverse) thread (tightens anti-clockwise). This design is intentional; the pedalling motion helps to keep the pedals tight rather than loosening them over time.
Final Checklist for how do you change pedals on a bike
- Confirmed new pedals are marked 'L' and 'R' for the correct sides.
- Used the correct tool (15mm wrench or 6/8mm Allen key).
- Remembered the left pedal is reverse-threaded (loosens clockwise, tightens anti-clockwise).
- Cleaned old grime from the crank arm threads before installing new pedals.
- Applied a fresh layer of bike grease to the new pedal threads.
- Started threading new pedals by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Firmly tightened both pedals so they are snug against the crank arms.
- Wiped away any excess grease after installation.
