How Do I Remove Bike Pedals

Removing bike pedals is a fundamental maintenance skill every cyclist should have. Whether you're upgrading to a new set, packing your bike for travel, or giving your crankset a deep clean, this guide will walk you through the process step-by-step. It seems simple, but there's a crucial trick involving a reverse-threaded pedal that catches many people out. We'll show you the correct technique to avoid frustration, damaged components, and scraped knuckles, ensuring a smooth and successful removal every time.

Fast Answer

Right Pedal (Drive-side): Turn anti-clockwise to loosen (standard thread).
Left Pedal (Non-drive side): Turn clockwise to loosen (reverse thread).
Easy Mantra: Position the tool and turn it toward the back of the bike.

5-15 Minutes Time needed

Easy Difficulty

Reverse threads & scraped knuckles Watch out for

Before You Start

Gathering the correct tools and understanding a key piece of bike design is 90% of the battle. Unlike most screws and bolts you encounter, your bike has one pedal that tightens in the opposite direction. Knowing this from the start will save you a world of effort.

The Correct Tool: Check your pedals. You will need either a 15mm pedal spanner (a long, thin spanner) or a 6mm or 8mm hex key (also known as an Allen key).
A Rag or Cloth: Drivetrains are greasy. A rag is essential for cleaning threads and wiping your hands.
Protective Gloves (Recommended): When a stuck pedal finally breaks free, it's very easy to smash your hand into the sharp teeth of the chainrings. A pair of work gloves can save you from a nasty cut.
Penetrating Oil (Optional): If your pedals haven't been removed in a long time, they may be seized. A spray like GT85 or a dedicated penetrating fluid can help loosen them.
Bicycle Grease (For Reinstallation): You won't need this for removal, but have it ready if you plan to install new pedals straight away. Proper greasing prevents them from seizing in the future.

Check first: The single most important thing to remember is that the left pedal (on the non-chain side) is reverse-threaded. You must turn it clockwise to loosen it. Forcing it anti-clockwise will only make it tighter and potentially damage the threads in your crank arm.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully, paying close attention to the direction you turn the tool for each side of the bike. We'll start with the right-hand, or "drive-side," which uses a standard thread.

Identify Your Pedal's Tool Requirement

Before you can apply any force, you need to know which tool to use. Look closely at where the pedal axle screws into the crank arm (the lever that the pedal is attached to). You'll find one of two things:

Spanner Flats: Two flat surfaces on the axle between the pedal body and the crank arm. If you see these, you will need a 15mm pedal spanner. A standard 15mm spanner may be too thick to fit in the gap, which is why a dedicated, thinner pedal spanner is recommended.
Hex Socket: A hexagonal (six-sided) hole on the very end of the pedal axle, visible from the inside of the crank arm. If you see this, you will need a 6mm or 8mm hex key.

Confirm you have the correct tool and that it fits snugly. A loose-fitting tool is a primary cause of rounded bolts and frustration.

Position the Bike and Right Crank Arm

You need the bike to be stable. Leaning it against a wall is fine, but if you have a bike stand, using it will make the job easier. Shift the chain onto the largest chainring at the front. This serves two purposes: it gives your knuckles some protection from the sharp teeth, and it helps prevent the chain from falling off.

Rotate the cranks so the right-side (drive-side) crank arm is pointing forward, at the 3 o'clock position. This is the optimal position to apply downward force, using gravity and your body weight to your advantage, giving you maximum leverage and control.

Remove the Right (Drive-Side) Pedal

This is the easy one. The right-side pedal has a standard thread, so the classic mantra "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey" applies. You need to turn the tool anti-clockwise to loosen it.

If using a pedal spanner: Fit the spanner onto the flats so the handle points up and slightly forward. Push down firmly towards the rear wheel of the bike.
If using a hex key: Insert the long end of the key fully into the socket from behind the crank arm. Position it so you can push down towards the ground.

Apply steady, continuous pressure. Avoid jerky movements. The pedal might resist at first with a 'crack' as the tension is released. This is normal. Continue to turn the tool anti-clockwise until the pedal is completely unthreaded from the crank arm.

Tip: The simple rule for both pedals is to turn the tool toward the back of the bike to loosen. On the right side, with the crank forward, this results in an anti-clockwise motion.

Reposition for the Left (Non-Drive-Side) Pedal

Now, move to the other side of the bike. Just as before, you need to set up the crank arm for optimal leverage. Rotate the cranks so the left-side crank arm is pointing forward, at the 9 o'clock position (when viewed from the left side of the bike). This mirrors the position you used on the right side and prepares you to apply effective downward force again.

Remove the Left (Non-Drive-Side) Pedal

This is the most critical step. Remember, the left pedal is reverse-threaded. You must turn the tool clockwise to loosen it. If you try to turn it anti-clockwise, you will only tighten it further.

Attach your spanner or insert your hex key, just as you did on the other side. With the crank arm pointing forward, apply downward pressure on your tool. This motion will turn the tool clockwise, loosening the pedal. Again, the simple mantra holds true: you are turning the tool toward the back of the bike.

Why the reverse thread? It's a clever piece of engineering. A phenomenon called 'pedal precession' would cause a normally threaded left pedal to slowly unscrew itself as you ride. The reverse thread counteracts this force, ensuring your pedals stay securely attached.

Once it breaks loose, continue turning clockwise until you can spin it out by hand. Congratulations, both pedals are now removed!

Clean and Inspect the Crank Threads

With both pedals off, take your rag and thoroughly clean the threaded holes in the crank arms. Remove all the old, dirty grease and any road grit that has accumulated there. This is also a good time to inspect the threads for any signs of damage (known as cross-threading). Healthy threads should look clean, sharp, and uniform. Cleaning them now ensures that when you install your next set of pedals, they will thread in smoothly and you'll get an accurate torque reading if you're using a torque wrench.

Quick Reference

Situation	Use this	Why
Removing the Right Pedal (Chain Side)	Turn your tool ANTI-CLOCKWISE.	This is a standard "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey" thread.
Removing the Left Pedal (No Chain)	Turn your tool CLOCKWISE.	This pedal is reverse-threaded to prevent it from loosening while you ride.
A Pedal is Really Stuck	Apply penetrating oil and let it soak for 10-15 minutes before trying again.	Corrosion and grime can act like glue; penetrating oil dissolves this bond.
General Rule of Thumb	Always turn the tool toward the rear wheel to loosen.	This simple mental shortcut works for both sides without remembering directions.

Common Problems When You Remove Bike Pedals

Sometimes, things don't go as planned. Years of grime, rain, and over-tightening can lead to stuck pedals. Here’s how to troubleshoot the most frequent issues.

Problem: The Pedal is Completely Seized and Won't Budge

This is the number one issue people face. The pedal feels like it's welded to the crank. Don't panic, and don't just apply more brute force—you might damage something or hurt yourself.

Double-Check Direction: First, take a breath and confirm you are turning the tool in the correct direction for that specific pedal. It's incredibly easy to forget the reverse thread on the left side in a moment of frustration.
Add Penetrating Oil: Spray a generous amount of penetrating fluid (not just standard WD-40) into the area where the pedal axle meets the crank arm. Let it sit for at least 15-30 minutes to work its way into the threads.
Increase Leverage: A longer tool provides more leverage. If your hex key is short, you can slide a metal pipe (a 'cheater bar') over the handle to extend it. For a pedal spanner, their long handles are usually sufficient. Make sure you can apply this extra force safely and without the tool slipping.
Use a Mallet: Give the end of your spanner or hex key a few sharp taps with a rubber or wooden mallet. Sometimes these sharp impacts can break the static friction (or 'stiction') that a steady force cannot.

Problem: The Tool Keeps Slipping Off or Rounding the Bolt

If your tool slips, it can damage the spanner flats or the hex socket, making removal much harder. This is usually caused by using a low-quality or incorrect tool.

Ensure Full Engagement: Make sure your hex key is pushed all the way into the socket. Grime inside the socket can prevent it from seating properly. Use a small pick to clean it out first. For a spanner, ensure it's fully seated on the flats.
Use the Right Tool: A dedicated pedal spanner is thinner and stronger than a standard workshop spanner and will get a much better grip. A high-quality, sharp-edged hex key is less likely to slip and round the socket than a cheap, worn one. Investing in good tools is always worthwhile.

Problem: You Smashed Your Hand on the Chainring

It happens to almost everyone at least once. The pedal suddenly breaks free, and your momentum carries your hand straight into the bike's sharpest components. The best fix is prevention. Always wear gloves, and consider wrapping a thick rag around the chainrings before you start. Positioning your body so you are pulling the spanner towards you, rather than pushing away, can sometimes offer more control and a safer outcome if it slips.

Advanced Tips for Removing Bike Pedals

Once you've mastered the basics, these techniques can help you deal with exceptionally stubborn pedals and work more efficiently and safely.

Use Opposing Force for Better Control

Instead of holding the bike and pushing on the tool, use your own strength against itself. Hold the opposite crank arm with one hand to keep it stationary, and use your other hand to pull the tool. A more advanced version is to arrange the tool and the crank arm so they form a narrow 'V' shape, then squeeze them together like a pair of secateurs. This contains the force within the bike's components, provides immense leverage, and greatly reduces the chance of the bike tipping over or your hand flying off into space.

The Bodyweight Method (Use with Extreme Caution)

For a truly immovable pedal, you can use your body weight. Rotate the crank so it's just past its lowest point, pointing towards the back of the bike. Attach the pedal spanner so its handle is pointing straight up. Hold onto a sturdy wall or workbench for balance, and very carefully place your foot on the end of the spanner handle and apply downward pressure. Warning: This provides a huge amount of force. The pedal may release suddenly, so be prepared and ensure the bike is stable. This is a last-resort method before visiting a bike shop.

Prepare for Next Time: The Importance of Grease

The best way to deal with a stuck pedal is to prevent it from ever getting stuck in the first place. When you install pedals (new or old), always apply a thin, even layer of high-quality bicycle grease or anti-seize compound to the threads. This creates a barrier against water and grime, preventing corrosion and ensuring easy removal months or even years down the line.

How Do I Remove Bike Pedals FAQ

Why is the left bike pedal reverse-threaded?

It's to counteract a force called pedal precession. As the bearings in the pedal rotate, they create a tiny rotational force on the pedal axle. On the right side, this force is clockwise, so a standard anti-clockwise thread tightens against it. On the left side, the force is anti-clockwise, so a reverse (clockwise) thread is needed to prevent the pedal from unscrewing itself as you ride.

Can I use a normal 15mm spanner instead of a pedal spanner?

Sometimes, but often not. Many crank arms have a recessed area for the pedal, and a standard spanner is too thick to fit into the narrow gap. A dedicated pedal spanner is much thinner and usually has a longer handle for better leverage, making it the ideal tool for the job.

What if I've already stripped or rounded the hex socket on my pedal?

This is a difficult situation. If the pedal also has spanner flats, you can try using those. If not, your best option is to take the bike to a professional mechanic at a local bike shop. They have specialist tools like bolt extractors that can remove the damaged pedal without harming your crank arm.

How tight should I make my pedals when I install them?

The official recommendation is typically around 35-40 Newton-metres (Nm) of torque. If you don't have a torque wrench, the general rule is "firmly snug." Tighten them until they are fully seated, then give them another quarter-turn. Do not stand on the spanner or use excessive force to tighten them, as this is what causes them to become seized.

Final Checklist for Removing Bike Pedals

Before you put your tools away, run through this final checklist to ensure you've done everything correctly and set yourself up for future success.

You successfully identified your pedal type and used the correct tool (15mm spanner or 6/8mm hex key).
You remembered the left pedal is reverse-threaded and turned it clockwise to remove.
You used the crank arm position (3 o'clock and 9 o'clock) to maximize your leverage safely.
You applied steady, controlled force to loosen the pedals.
Your knuckles are intact, thanks to wearing gloves and being mindful of the chainrings.
You have thoroughly cleaned the threads inside the crank arms with a rag.
If reinstalling, you have high-quality grease ready to apply to the pedal threads to prevent future issues.